How the Loop Choke Actually Works

The Loop Choke Works Because of Positioning, Not Strength. Here Is How It Actually Works.

The loop choke is not a power move. You are not muscling someone’s neck. You are setting a trap and then creating the right conditions for them to walk into it. Once you understand that, the technique starts to make a lot more sense.

In the gi, the loop choke becomes available any time you have a cross collar grip and your opponent’s head is lower than yours. That second condition is the one most people miss. The grip alone does not give you the choke. The grip plus the head position is what makes it happen.

The video below covers three core principles that determine whether the loop choke works or falls apart. Watch it first, then read the breakdown below.

How to Know Your Cross Collar Grip Is Actually in the Right Place
Most people who attempt the loop choke have a grip. Fewer have a grip in the right position. There is a difference and it matters.

Two quick tests tell you whether your grip is placed correctly. First, align your index finger with your opponent’s collar bone. Second, pull the grip toward their head and check whether your thumb lines up near their chin. If both of those line up, your grip is where it needs to be.

The wrist matters too. The wrist of your gripping hand should flex inward, toward your chest, the way your wrist naturally hangs when you hold a coffee mug. That position allows your forearm to wrap around your opponent’s neck more efficiently when you go to finish. A stiff wrist fights the geometry of the choke. A relaxed wrist works with it.

Why Head Position Is the Whole Game
Here is the most important thing to understand about the loop choke. Your opponent’s escape route runs in one direction and one direction only. It goes toward your secondary grip. If they can duck under that grip, they are out. If they cannot, the choke finishes.

That is why the goal is not just to get the grip. The goal is to take their head toward your primary grip and trap it against your hip or your ribs. When you do that, you block the escape route before they can use it. The video describes it as treating the finish like a guillotine, and that is a useful mental image. You are not strangling someone into submission. You are closing a door.

Any finish that works will share one thing in common. There is some obstacle, whether that is your hip, your elbow, or your body position, that prevents their head from ducking under your second grip. Find that obstacle and the choke becomes available. Ignore it and the choke disappears.

The Three Problems You Will Run Into and How to Handle Them
The first problem is grip prevention. A trained opponent knows that a cross collar grip is dangerous and they will break it immediately if they can. This is a smart and correct reaction. If they succeed, the loop choke is no longer available. Your job is to protect the grip long enough to get their head into position, or to re-establish it quickly if they do break it.

The second problem is posture. The choke requires your opponent’s head to be lower than yours. Some opponents will put their head there on their own without realizing it. Most will not. The most reliable way to get their head where you need it is to force a reaction. Sweep attempts work well here. When you threaten a sweep, your opponent reacts by posting or driving forward. Both of those reactions tend to bring their head down into range. You are not actually trying to sweep them. You are trying to trigger the movement that sets up the choke.

The third problem is securing the head once you have it. As a general principle, fall toward the side of your secondary grip when you go to finish. If you can get onto that hip, you can use your elbow to block their head even in situations where you cannot tuck it against your first grip. That elbow creates the obstacle that the choke depends on.

A Note on Why This Technique Suits Jiu Jitsu Beginners Well
3 Rules of Thumb for the Loop Choke

The loop choke is not a move that requires speed, strength, or a specific body type. It requires an understanding of position and a willingness to be patient.

You set the grip. You wait for or create the right head position. You finish. That sequence can be learned step by step, and once you understand why each piece matters, the whole thing becomes logical rather than mechanical.

That is actually a good description of how jiu jitsu works in general. The techniques that last are the ones built on principles you can understand and repeat. The loop choke is one of them.

Want to Learn Techniques Like This in Person?

At 2nd Gear Jiu Jitsu and Muay Thai in Laurel, Maryland, this is exactly how we teach. Each technique comes with context, not just steps. You learn why something works so that you can apply it when the moment shows up in a real roll.

If you are curious about training, we offer a free trial class for new students. Come in, see how we teach, and find out if this is something you want to build on.

The Five Commandments of the Underhook Half Guard

The Five Commandments of the Underhook Half Guard

In Jiu-jitsu, there is a hierarchy of positions, and everything is interconnected. It all forms a complex web with many different paths to any destination. And within that system of multiple possibilities, there is the underhook half guard.

And it’s quite the interesting position.

Half is a position that easily connects to many others within one or two steps. No matter where you are, there is usually a path back to the half or to somewhere else.

That connection is what makes it such a versatile position, but there is also a drawback. The balance of control in half guard is fragile. Small changes in grips or positions can shift control out of your grasp. That fine line is what makes it a tough position to master.

For that reason, I’m going to share some insights I’ve gained from playing the underhook variation of the position for several years. These commandments will improve your game:

  1. I will fight to stay on my side.
  2. I will keep my bottom elbow glued to my side.
  3. I will win any battle for the underhook because I won’t stop.
  4. I will make my opponent uncomfortable.
  5. I will control the distance and establish leverage.

I Will Fight to Stay On My Side

Hands down, this is the one thing that you absolutely have to do when playing under half guard. By staying on your side, you will not only make it harder for your opponents to pass but it will also be easier to attack.

Your opponents will try to flatten you out by:

Pulling your bottom knee up and moving laterally.
Crossfacing you and driving you down with pressure.
Taking the underhook away from you and pulling your bottom elbow out from under you.
Gripping your bottom sleeve and opposite collar, so that they can pin the shoulder as they pull up on the sleeve.

Be aware of all those possibilities. We’ll discuss how to deal with them in later commandments.

I Will Keep My Bottom Elbow Glued To My Side

By keeping your elbow glued to your side, you reinforce the arm with the mechanical structure of your body. It will decrease the possibility of your opponent pulling that arm away from you and make it easier for you to stay on your side.

This piece is often overlooked but it pays dividends. Just by doing this one little thing, your half guard will become more fearsome. Also if you pull your elbow as far back as possible and then lay on it, the difficulty of flattening you out will increase.

So as a reminder, keeping your bottom elbow glued to your side will:

  • Make crossface less effective.
  • Make it difficult for your opponent to flatten you out.

Try it and test the results for yourself.

I Will Win Any Battle For The Underhook Because I Won’t Stop

When it comes to any battle for the underhook, you’re at an disadvantage if you’re on the bottom. The reason for that lies in the power of gravity.

It works in their favour and against you.

As your hand attempts to weave into position, you have to lift your upper body, and all they have to do is drop. Then once the battle has been won, you have to work harder to maintain control because gravity won’t help you maintain the ideal distance.

So going in, we know that they don’t have as much at stake as we do. It’s a war of attrition, and we have to be willing to die on that battlefield rather than quit because the cost for us is higher.

I Will Make My Opponent Uncomfortable

You never want your opponent to be comfortable in any situation. That’s true especially for half guard.

To accomplish that, we must establish grips that will give us advantages and create micro movements that force them to react. I’ll give you examples later.

Grips

A common counter to the underhook half guard game is to overhook. In good hands, it can also transform the position and make it really uncomfortable for you on bottom, but we can neutralize it.

Here’s how:

  • Open their gi and pass the far lapel around to your underhook hand then pull your elbow tight.
  • Hug their hip with your underhook hand and pull it tight.

The overhook pressure comes from your opponent moving their hips away and then twisting downward. If you control the hip, you will prevent them from ever getting the necessary leverage.

Micro Movements

The goal is to make them react in small ways so that they can never quite settle. So push them, pull them, bump them with your knee, hook their ankle and pull it away from them.

There are many options.

Our focus is just on doing something. We can’t allow ourselves to be complacent.

I Will Control The Distance And Establish Leverage

The main things that you have to worry about when it comes to distance control is being smashed and protecting your neck. So let’s start with a basic gameplan for addressing those two things:

If you’re flat on your back, you must create space.
If you’re firmly on your side, you must close the distance.

We never want to be caught in the midrange, where it is easy to pummel for the underhook or choke us. So make a conscious effort to glue your head to your opponent. It will also naturally teach you to shoot your underhook as deep as possible.

For leverage, one thing that will change your game for the better is using your feet as independent limbs. One leg should also focus on pinning your opponent’s trapped leg down, but the other should be free.

It is that leg that will give you a structural advantage when it comes to attacking. All you have to do is use to pull your opponent’s ankle away from them. That will force their hip to twist and weaken the structure of their body, making everything you want to do easier.

Depth Over Breadth

This post is focused on giving you a conceptual foundation for underhook half guard. Later posts will expand out from there and approach the topic from the framework of entries, initiation and execution. But if you have any specific frustrations about half guard, feel free to contact us.

So we can resolve them.